There isn't a better illustration of the diversity of Cornwall's landscape than the contrast between the ruggedness of Bodmin Moor and it's proximity to the lush Tamar Valley.
In just a matter of miles the big sky and big panoramas of the high ground give way to a tranquil, blooming oasis of eucalyptus trees, ripening strawberries and meandering creeks while at the same time revealing some of Cornwall's best kept secrets.
Just a few miles in from the south coast, the market town of Liskeard provides a gateway to the moor. Once a centre for the mining industry, the town’s fine 19th Century buildings reflect a prosperous past and house some interesting craft and gift shops.
As you travel up to higher ground, you’ll pass ancient stones dedicated to forgotten kings of Cornwall, holy wells like the fine example at the village of St Cleer and prehistoric burial chambers that start to give you a glimpse into the 6,000 years of human habitation in this most wild of locations.
Following the roads further inland the moor stretches out in all directions. At Bolventor the famous Jamaica Inn, immortalised by Daphne du Maurier in her novel of the same name, stands breathtakingly bleak overlooking the highest hills in Cornwall where just a few farmsteads dot the landscape. At Temple just down the hill, there’s a 12th Century church originally built by the Knights Templers for travellers on pilgrimage to Ireland, a great example of the historical gems you’ll come across on the way.
Travel west to St Neot and discover a lovely village sheltering in a wooded valley that takes you on to the ancient market town of Bodmin. Lying central to both north and south coasts the town is an ideal hub from which to explore the surrounding area and is the starting point of the popular Camel Trail, a cycle path that takes you through a winding eighteen mile scenic route to the port of Padstow.
Cut across the moor and head back east past old packhorse bridges and windswept hills and you’ll come across well-kept small villages like Blisland, with a fine Norman church and award-winning pub on the village green, from where you can take a stroll around the edge of the moor and start to get a taste of the area’s isolated attraction.
At the prosperous town of Camelford you’ll start uncovering the legends of King Arthur, Merlin and brave knights, as some believe the town to be the location of the ancient court of Camelot. Nearby at Slaughterbridge is a stone marking the spot where Arthur reputedly fell in his last battle.
Just a few miles inland, the vastness of the moor opens up. From the top of Rough Tor and Brown Willy, the two highest peaks in Cornwall, the views are spectacular and the passing clouds casting moving shadows on the landscape create a fantastic natural show while below you ancient buildings, standing stones and medieval farms add to the feeling of a land full of history just waiting to be discovered.
The 150 square miles of moorland is a great place for walking and brings you closer to the fascinating landscape, both natural and manmade. Such is the importance of the moor that it has a whole swath of designations including World Heritage Site status which recognises the importance of the tin mining industry dating back over 4,000 years. It has also been named an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and most of the moor has been declared a Site of Special Scientific Importance.
As you skirt around the edge of the moor the ancient Cornish capital of Launceston lies below a 1000-year-old castle and the narrow streets of this ancient town throw up some delightful art galleries and shops and a local market in the town square. To appreciate the importance of agriculture in the area, then a trip to the busy market at Hallworthy gives a fascinating glimpse into local life where you can see the weekly auctions of livestock in a flurry of rural activity.
As the scenery softens, you drop down in to the Tamar valley where the gentle climate and sheltered environment provides a fantastic spot for cultivation and around the villages of the valley avid gardeners make the most of their fortunate location. Villages like Harrowbarrow sit in rural splendour surrounded by neat green fields and where a friendly, relaxed atmosphere greets visitors.
Down the valley to Calstock, you’ll come across one of the prettiest locations in the whole county. Not only does the village lie beautifully on the banks of the slow moving River Tamar, but it’s also famous for its multitude of fairs, festivals and art exhibitions that take place throughout the year.
For centuries, the valley was a food basket for markets throughout the UK and up until a few decades ago, early blooming flowers were the mainstay of the economy. Although now on a smaller scale, the area still grows an amazing array of produce and as you travel around you can pick up fresh vegetables, soft fruits and flowers that are sold from the roadside.
Follow the river down and you’ll come across Cothele House, an atmospheric Tudor mansion standing in sumptuous gardens with an informative museum outlining the centuries’ old commerce in and around the river. Designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the frost free river estuary is a haven for wildlife and perfect for a boat trip or paddling your own canoe.
Accommodation Bodmin Moor area
Accommodation Tamar Valley area (south)
Accommodation Tamar Valley area (north)
Places to visit Bodmin Moor area
Places to visit Tamar Valley area (south)
Places to visit Tamar Valley area (north)
to add an item to your Favourites basket.
