South Coast

From the windswept Coastwatch station at Rame Head to the tranquil scenery of the Helford River, the south coast of Cornwall is full of contrasts and plenty of surprises. 

Like a thick green carpet slung across the land, the hills roll down to the shore where the sea is framed by whitewashed fishing villages and exotic gardens. Here a labyrinth of high-hedged roads leads you past medieval churches, fields full of flowers and even a few happy tea bushes. Just as you cross into Cornwall and start heading west, the twin villages of Kingsand and Cawsand situated on the Tamar River estuary jumble together like two competing children.

Their pastel-painted cottages push each other up and down the narrow streets to a shoreline where the calm waters are perfect for windsurfing and sailing and provide some of the best dive sites in the UK. Just over the brow of the hill and down again like a big dipper, there’s the thrill of the sight of five miles of golden sand as you drop down to Whitsand Bay. The rolling breakers of this spectacular stretch of coastline have been a secret haunt of surfers for years and the wide beaches are fantastic for a family day out.

Further down the coast, past fields of daffodils in the spring and bright yellow rapeseed in summer, the seaside town of Looe keeps visitors entertained.  Still very much a working fishing port, if you start your day early you can watch the flurry of the day’s catch being auctioned on the quay and pick up some fresh fish for yourself. Level streets snake their way to the beach near the town’s banjo-shaped pier, passing a mix of shops and eateries, many of which are located in buildings dating from the 16th and 17th centuries. And if you’re up for a bit of seasonal fun, then this seaside town is a great place to spend New Year’s Eve as it hosts one of the best parties in the country.

A few miles away, the village of Polperro squeezes down the valley to a small harbour where tiny fisherman’s cottages and sail lofts hang off the rocks. Mercifully free of traffic (there is a horse drawn tram for those who want to arrive in style) you can wander through the slender streets and browse the shops selling locally made handicrafts and confectionery. From here the coastal footpath passes cliffs that plunge into the sea revealing a handful of beaches that are often empty even in summer.

On through an agricultural heartland, where the hedgerows groan with wild flowers, hawks fly overhead and squawking pheasants cross your path, the green fields dip down to the Fowey River. The Bodinnick Ferry takes you over the water to the town of  Fowey which, although was once a grand dame of the south, is now more the pouting supermodel with penthouse flats, designer shops and trendy cafes with tables and chairs spilling out on to the streets. The town, famous for its literary connections, especially Daphne Du Maurier, is also a fantastic spot for sailing as it’s home to one of the finest harbours in the country.

Follow the River Fowey upstream and you’ll come across secluded villages like Lerryn, located in a gorgeous woodland setting just below an Elizabethan bridge, which is said to have been the inspiration for Kenneth Grahame’s book, 'The Wind in the Willows'. Three miles further on is the town of Lostwithiel. Overlooked by an imposing 12th century castle, built for Edward the Black Prince, the town was once the capital of the county. Here you can discover buildings that date back 800 years and streets crammed with antique shops. An ideal place to stop off, haggle for a bargain and enjoy the lovely riverside walks.

Head due west and at the village of Charlestown the tall ships in the harbour and the perfectly preserved rows of 18th century cottages suddenly transport you back to Georgian Cornwall. And if it all seems strangely familiar then you’ve probably seen this unique location take a starring role in TV series such as ‘The Onedin Line’ and films like ‘The Eagle Has Landed’ and ‘The Three Musketeers’.  Further down the coast, passing the old china clay town of St Austell with its nearby family friendly beaches of Duporth and Porthpean and the must see Eden Project, lies the medieval fishing port of Mevagissey. Here you can wander along the harbour walls and watch the trawlers come and go or take a trip on one of the pleasure boats that take you around the coast to explore the hidden coves once used by smugglers.  

The ports and havens that cling to the coast as you go further south are dotted with sun-bleached wooden cafes and splashes of floral colour from the mansions that lie just back from the sea like the magnificent camellias and rhododendrons at Caerhays Castle gardens near Gorran. Inland, thatched cottages surround village ponds and round houses, like the ones in the picture postcard village of Veryan, punctuate the countryside – all perfect locations where you can track down a country pub and enjoy the local food and atmosphere.

The castle at St Mawes was built by Henry VIII as protection against attacks from the sea and it’s also rumoured he spent his honeymoon with Anne Boleyn here too. Today this waterside village, situated on the immense Fal Estuary (the third largest natural harbour in the world) is very peaceful as it snakes around the river and the yachts that drift by on the water only seem to add to the relaxed pace of life.

Upstream, the King Harry Ferry crosses the Fal River at Philleigh and is just one of the many ferries that criss cross waters around this part of Cornwall. During the short journey across to Feock, you might just spot deer swimming across the river, frolicking dolphins and even the odd pilot whale and the climate here is so mild that a few miles away at Lord Falmouth’s Tregothnan Estate, even tea bushes flourish.

At the head of the River Fal the City of Truro is home to some real gems of Cornish architecture. The 19th century Neo-Gothic cathedral towers over cobbled streets which are a shopper’s paradise. Here you’ll find a host of stylish boutiques, fine restaurants and fashionable bars amongst the elegant Victorian and Georgian buildings.

Heading down the river, the villages of Mylor and Flushing, (settled by seamen from Holland in the 1600’s and still retaining a curious Dutch appearance), have become great sailing centres. Both perfect bases for exploring the deep-water channels and open sea, after a day on the water there are plenty of busy bars in which to swap seafaring stories.

By the time you reach Falmouth there is an almost tropical feel in the air, palm trees line the roads and the town is very much a port that combines its heritage with cutting edge industry and creativity. Home to one of the best art schools in the UK and the National Maritime Museum Cornwall, grand hotels mix with modern apartments and shops generating a youthful buzz.

Dropping south through the narrow lanes that take you down to the Helford River, modern life seems to disappear into fantasy. Trees tumble down to the river revealing little hamlets like the ridiculously charming Port Navas and wildlife springs into action. In this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, rare birds such as Little Egrets and Osprey thrive and oysters are reared beneath the still waters.