The Smuggler's Way
The Smuggler’s Way is a challenging coast to coast hike that weaves through historic locations tied to Cornwall’s intriguing smuggling past. Beginning in Looe, on the peaceful southern coast of the Cornish peninsula, the route leads you through wooded valleys, past the final resting place of the legendary King Arthur’s sword Excalibur, and to the highest point on Bodmin Moor. As you take on the rugged and varied terrain, you’ll experience the true essence of the Cornish wilderness. The route concludes at the picturesque fishing village of Boscastle where a narrow valley leads towards the ocean.
At a glance
Created by Cornishman Frank Squibb in the mid-1990s, the Smuggler’s Way spans 38 miles. It can also be linked with the South West Coast Path and the Saints Way to form a challenging 100-mile circular journey.
The Smuggler’s Way takes three days to complete and offers a hiking experience unlike any other in the UK. The trail weaves together hundreds of disused smugglers’ paths with dramatic tors and ancient landmarks, leading you through locations steeped in Cornish legend.
Starting in the pretty fishing village of Looe, the route heads towards the historic market town of Liskeard. As you progress, the landscape becomes increasingly remote, taking you through dense woodlands and across the rugged, exposed moorlands of Bodmin Moor.
Cornwall's Smuggling History
In the eighteenth century, smuggling thrived in Cornwall, with hidden coves, secret tunnels, and remote villages providing the perfect backdrop for illegal trade. Smuggling involved people from all walks of life, including teachers, government officials, and even clergymen, as the underground economy supplemented low wages and widespread poverty. Goods like tea, brandy, silk, and salt were covertly moved across the county, often leading to violent skirmishes between "free-traders" and revenue men.
The Smuggler’s Way hike takes you through these historic landscapes, where contraband was once hidden in caves and amongst the rocky outcrops of Bodmin Moor. The journey begins in Looe, a notorious smuggling hub, where The Jolly Sailor – one of England’s oldest pubs – was once a favoured haunt of smugglers.
Difficulty
The Smuggler’s Way is not for the faint-hearted, featuring moderate to strenuous terrain with challenging sections of steep, open moorland. As the most difficult of Cornwall’s coast-to-coast routes, it is best suited for experienced walkers. When crossing the moors, navigational skills are essential and walkers must be prepared for sudden and unexpected poor weather or visibility. For those seeking extra support, local walking tour operators can provide expert guidance and additional information.
Highlights
With a bit of imagination, the Smuggler’s Way takes you back in time, following the footsteps of Cornish pirates, ancient kings, and Bronze Age settlers. This journey offers a captivating mix of Cornish scenery, from coastal villages and wooded pathways to open moorland and mysterious lakes.
The adventure begins in the historic port of Looe, known for its fishing fleet and pirate past. Departing from the South West Coast Path, the trail leads into Kilminorth Woods nature reserve, tracing an ancient creek and passing a Dark Ages defensive dyke.
As you follow forest tracks and narrow lanes, you’ll reach the market town of Liskeard, listed in the Domesday Book. On the second day, the path ascends to the moors, passing an Iron Age hill fort and climbing Brown Gelly for panoramic views.
Descending to Dozmary Pool – legendary resting place of King Arthur’s Excalibur – you’ll spend the night at the remote Jamaica Inn, made famous by Daphne du Maurier’s novel. The final day takes you across open moorland, past ancient stone circles, burial mounds, and Cornwall’s highest tors.
After passing Davidstow Airfield, the route descends through woodlands and waterfalls, ending in the picturesque village of Boscastle.
When is the best time to visit?
The best time to hike the Smuggler’s Way is in late spring or early autumn. In spring, the trail bursts with wildflowers like bluebells, orchids and campions, and you might spot young wildlife in the woodlands and moors. The milder weather and longer days offer plenty of daylight for your journey.
Early autumn brings cool air and vibrant foliage, with rich oranges and reds transforming the landscape. Visibility across Bodmin Moor is excellent, enhancing the dramatic views. These seasons also offer a more relaxed experience, and the ground is more stable for easier navigation.
Summer is an option but expect more visitors and warmer temperatures, which can make the hike more challenging. Winter is not recommended due to poor weather, reduced visibility, waterlogged ground, and shorter daylight hours, all of which complicate navigation.
Accessibility
The Smuggler’s Way is not suited to those with limited mobility, with large sections of the route being off-road. For alternative routes, Cardinham Woods can be found near Bodmin and has several trails to choose from, including some that are wheelchair accessible.
Itinerary
Whilst originally designed to be completed over two days, a three day itinerary of the Smuggler’s Way allows for a more relaxed pace and time to enjoy the surrounding areas.
Stage 1: Looe to Liskeard
(10 miles)
Stage 2: Liskeard to Jamaica Inn
(12 miles)
Stage 3: Jamaica Inn to Boscastle
(16 miles)
Directions
There are no complete Ordnance Survey maps available for the Smuggler’s Way. However, gpx files and maps created by other hikers can be found via Google. Local walking companies also provide directions and can help you to tailor an itinerary that suits you.
Public transport and accommodation
The Smuggler’s Way is well-connected, making it possible to move along sections of the route via public transport with ease. Both Boscastle and Looe are served by local bus lines and there are rail connections between Liskeard and Looe.
Jamaica Inn is the most remote stop-off point on the trail, with many opting to stay there or taxi back to Liskeard. However, there are also local buses, making public transport an option.
There are plenty of accommodation options in Looe, Boscastle and Liskeard, particularly in the shoulder and off-seasons. At the end of day two, it’s possible to stay at Jamaica Inn or take a taxi or bus to another location.
It's important to consult timetables before setting out, as schedules and services can change. For accommodation options, visit the Visit Cornwall accommodation page.
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